Phnom Phen is a city you love most in the rain. Not because of its beauty (yet to appear) but because it’s not so damn hot!
It is definitely not the beautiful, relaxing, destination that people flock to South-East Asia for. Once you get over the smell of urine, decaying pig snouts and your own sweat, you still have to survive the traffic.
The “nice” part of the city is a strip of run down, built up hotels with views of the brown, littered Mekong River with bar bills tripling that of its suburban neighbours, stealing $7 for a large hearty meal accompanied by a $2 Angkor Draught.
Although Phnom Penh can boast that it has more wildlife than the average city, at the top of the fauna list is dogs and rats. In their defence, yes their rats can often be mistaken for possums.
However! You cannot judge a whole country by its capital. If I were to do so, I’d have to assume that the Cambodian people live relatively well. But I know better. By ‘relatively well’ I mean only that they have enough flesh on their bones to give the impression that they eat enough to survive and that they have shelter to sleep under, even if it is inside their Tuk Tuks or under shop awnings. Even the other touristy destinations in which I have visited, Sihanoukville and Siem Reap, naturally shed no light on the true poverty of Cambodia. It is only now that we are on a bus out of the city, hours into our journey that we are catching realistic glimpses.
You may read this and fall into the assumption that I dislike Cambodia. But you couldn’t be more wrong. I can only judge on face value, but the Khmer are simply beautiful people (except for the men who tried to rob us on our homeward stroll). For the most part they have infectious smiles on glowing faces and an aura about them that draws you into what feels like a peaceful world. These people are extraordinary to be able to achieve such beaming qualities through not only a deprived lifestyle but also after such a recent and brutal past.
It’s all too often said and somewhat of a cliché but a country is its people. For that reason I intent to visit the Khmer over any white-sandy beach, pinacolada or palm tree.
stephmoni 